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   Got a Twist Out look you love that people 
                      can't stop eyeing? 
 
  
       
Well send your photo of that look to The Coil Review 
                        and share it with the rest of us.

           Enter to win this month's Looks You Love contest and be 
             1 of the 3 to be chosen as the natural beauty with the
                                          Best Twisted Out Look. 
    
            Winners will receive a full set of products from Indigofera-
                             a plant based natural hair care line.

            Send in (1) photo along with an explanation of how your
                    twist out  was created and how you maintain it.

  Send your photo to sumbmissions@thecoilreview.com by August 20
                   
We all want to see the Looks You Love!
    

                               Prizes provided by Indigofera
                               


                       *Natural Central twistout photo courtesy of Locstar Salon

 

August 4, 2008

Make it Work!

By: Stephanie M. Taylor

I love to exercise. It makes me feel good, and above all, it helps clear my mind from the clutter of a stressful day. On these disorderly days, I go to my local gym to work out my aggressions. After a few laborious hours—ok, more like 20 minutes on the treadmill—I sometimes pause to take in my surroundings. When I do, too often I notice that among a sea of sweaty cardio fans and weightlifting junkies, very few are women of the African persuasion. Could it just be the location of my gym or could there really be only a minority of black women who venture into the realm of exercise? I initially dismissed my thoughts as paranoia. But as I was freshening up after my workout, particularly trying to work through the knotted mess my naturally curly hair had transformed into, my mind entertained a new thought. Could hair management possibly be a reason that many black   women don’t exercise regularly?

I decided to test my intuition and turned to my trusty, all-knowing research guru, Google. My query produced a few websites pertaining to black women in relation to exercising and the maintenance of hair. Of these websites, one discussed a study conducted by the Wake Forest University Baptist Medical Center, in which black women were asked about their exercise routine; and if they had none, the reasons why. This study reported that although the participants believed it was important to exercise, about a third of those women (not all of which had natural hair), attributed their inability to deal with the upkeep of their hair during and after exercising as the reason for exercising less than they would like, or not at all.

Sounds like a dilemma to me—so, what to do? What if you are a natural sister who, for either health reasons or just to improve overall well-being, decides she wants to get into shape? What if you already exercise consistently but have yet to figure out how to deal with the after-effects of the salt-infused sweat that attacks your hair? How do you maintain the lusciousness of your strands, all the while toning and working out your body?

A few women from the Harvard School of Public Health decided that these concerns demanded their attention. Sisters Together, a program developed by the Sisters Together Coalition, began a campaign focused on promoting healthy habits for black women, such as eating properly and exercising. The Sisters Together motto, “Move More, Eat Better,” succinctly states their mission to encourage black women to take better care of their bodies. Understanding the obstacles presented with exercising and black women’s hair, Sisters Together created a handy guidebook appropriately titled, Hair Care Tips for Sisters on the Move: Feeling Fit and Looking Fine. An amazing find, this booklet offers great suggestions that every black woman should know. Here are a few quick tips from the natural hair section of the Hair Care Tips for Sisters on the Move:

1) Wash hair once a week with a mild pH-balanced
shampoo to remove salt buildup
2)
Condition your hair every week with a moisturizing conditioner or hot oil treatment
3)
Put a light conditioning oil on your scalp and hair every day
4) If you want to keep your hairline smooth [after a work out], rub a cream or gel into your hands and smooth your hairline; tie on a cotton scarf and leave on for at least fifteen minutes


I recently spoke to Ms. Ama Boah, who coincidentally has just received her masters from the Harvard School of Public Health. This beautiful, 28 year-old woman rocks her natural fro with poise and grace. And by the way, she kicks some major butt at yoga, Thai Chi and anything else she ventures to do. In addition to doing yoga, she tries to do some form of exercise every day, ranging from a simple brisk walk, to running, or even biking. I spoke to her recently about this topic and she gladly gave me some of her special tips for all you natural sisters out there contemplating that sweaty world of working out. Here are a few of Ama’s tips for her natural hair after and in between work outs:

1) Right after a work out, rinse hair with water and add a dab of conditioner and gel (her fav is Fantasia IC Hair Polisher Styling gel with aloe)
2) Three times a week, brush through hair with a conditioner (she suggests VO5 Kiwi Lime Clarifying Conditioner or Trader Joe’s Nourish Spa Conditioner)
3) Use a warm olive oil and honey treatment once a week to keep hair shiny 4) To keep scalp clean, either do an apple cider vinegar rinse or add a bit of baking soda to your conditioner

The scientifically proven benefits of exercise are numerous and include losing weight, reducing stress, alleviating symptoms of depression and/or anxiety, and lowering risks for potentially life threatening diseases, i.e. heart disease and diabetes. With the info from Hair Care Tips for Sisters on the Move, as well as my sexy coily-haired friend, Ms. Boah, there is no reason that we can’t be in shape and have amazing hair too. So, get into it! Trot on that treadmill and saddle-up on that stationary bike. Take a step, yoga or pilates class for healthy goodness sake! No need to compromise good health if you can just create a straightforward regiment that will keep both your body and your hair healthy, strong and in shape. Like Tim Gunn would say, "Make it Work!"





August 4, 2008

CoilStar of the Month: Alek Wek 

Beauty Outside of the Box
By: Alicia Edwards



The most highly anticipated Italian Vogue issue of 2008 had a waiting list miles long of women and men, trying to get their fashionista hands on a copy this past July. Frankly, no one could view this as a conundrum because black models have been visibly under-represented in the semi-glossy pages of fashion magazines for decades. We could only predict such a buzz and hoopla to be generated once Vogue Italia announced that they have hired only black models to be represented in the pages of their July 2008 issue. Historically though, Europe has been much more accepting of diverse images of black beauty. Remember how France embraced Josephine Baker in the 1930’s with her fabulous self! Therefore it was not entirely a surprise that this European brand would be the first to publish such a landmark issue.

Although not a cover girl of last month’s Vogue Italia, the exotic supernova with her deep, rich hue, was one of the individuals who were requested to be featured in this history making issue--International Supermodel, Alek Wek. In all her African glory, Alek is self described as “inky black”--but beyond her skintone, she has proven to be undeniably extraordinary. Exemplifying a model that is so much more than an exotic beauty, she utilized her career to achieve international fame as well as social activism; and not to mention, to propel herself into the creative arena as a designer of handbags.

Alek Wek was born into the Dinka tribe in Sudan in 1977. After enduring hardships in war torn Sudan, she migrated to London where her unique looks were discovered by a Models 1 Scout. Her career took off very quickly and was touted Model of the Year in 1997 by MTV, and landed the cover of Elle Magazine that November. Alek has since modeled for John Galliano, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ermanno Scervino and many other high fashion and couture designers. Nonetheless, her own signature look is a very closely shaven reddish-brown natural. It’s a wonder how a woman not only survives, but actually conquers an industry that favors a European standard of beauty—slender facial features, fair skin and never ending hair.

In Alek’s 2007 memoir, “From Sudanese Refugee to International Supermodel”, she weaves a tale of her loving family, strong sense of national pride, and unrelenting work ethic. She explained that as a woman who comes from a background of tribesmen known for their tall, thin bodies and deep dark skin, her Sudanese “look” was very rare in London (where she moved to escape from the ruins of her home), and even more rare in the international high fashion scene. She also shares a little unknown fact that as she was growing up, she was inflicted with a severe case of psoriasis, a genetic and immune-mediated disease of the skin. She was often called a lizard, due to the silver scaly appearance of her skin. To help treat her condition, her mother shaved her head and slathered on bottles of Vaseline. Miraculously, shortly after moving to England, her skin cleared up, possibly due to the moist London climate, and her advancing puberty. To this day, she continues to sport an extra low cut look, and does it with sophistication and pride.

During the maturity stage of her career, she challenged her booking agents to find work not only based on her out of the box look, but also for her sharp professionalism. In taking bold steps, Alek broadened her appeal and commanded hard won respect in the industry. After meeting many accomplishments with runway modeling, she was ready for another challenge and started her handbag line called, Wek 1933, after the year her late father was born and her family name of course.

As her line was swiftly taking off, sadly, her homeland was violently ripping itself apart. In 2004, the BBC contacted Ms. Wek to contribute to a documentary about the region of Africa in which she came from. In doing so, she was able locate long lost relatives, and ultimately bring her mother back to Sudan. By humanizing the tragic war between the Arab and non Arab populations, she has been able to bring in both aid and awareness to the plight of the Sudanese refugees. Alek then created a non-profit organization in 2006 called, W.E.K.-Working to Educate Kids, which was founded to help the inner city youth in both New York and Sudan.

Alek is now a member of the U.S. Committee for Refugees' Advisory Council, still rocking the international runway, and has continued to make a loud and clear beauty statement, challenging others to break through their limited imaginations. She proves that black beauty can’t fit inside a box.

                                            ALEX WEK
                           



August 4, 2008
 
Class is in Session with Oraje: Base Oils a.k.a. Carrier Oils   
By: Oraje Nefertum 


The world of natural cosmetics is a mysterious world, where labels may be quite misleading. Many products on the market today make claims to be all natural or organic, when in fact may have anywhere between 20%-98% natural ingredients in them. The only way of knowing whether or not the products you are buying are indeed what the labels say, is to know what the ingredients in the products actually are, and what they do.

My job is to educate you on common ingredients found in cosmetics i.e. Moisturizers, Emollients, Preservatives, etc. Only by knowing about ingredients, will you become an informed consumer. So right now, I will break down Base Oils aka Carrier Oils that are commonly used in hair products.

MINERAL OIL
Mineral oil a.k.a. liquid petrolatum is a by-product in the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline; yes gasoline, you know like the stuff you put in your car, that stuff. It is a transparent and colorless oil that is very cost effective to produce. Many companies use Mineral oil in there products because it’s a cheaper oil to use in there manufacturing process.

Why is it harmful?
Mineral oil clogs the pores and prevents the skin from absorbing any essential nutrients the skin needs to be healthy; and it robs the skin of vitamins A,E,C and D, to name a few. Further more, clogged pores prevent the skin from breathing and releasing waste

Healthy Alternatives.
There are many healthy alternatives to mineral oil. Depending on your skin type and Dosha (to be discussed in a later issue), you can use:

Safflower oil
Safflower oil is a great skin hydrator, it also nourishes and restructures the skin. Safflower oil is often used in massage products because it oxidizes easily. It is stable and consistent, and does not change in low temperatures.

Avocado oil
Avocado oil is commonly used in the cosmetic industry because it soothes skin and helps transport active substances into the skin. Avocado Oil has high concentrations of Vitamins A, D and E, minerals, protein, lecithin and fatty acids. It is a useful, penetrating nutrient for dry skin and eczema. Avocado oil is said to have healing and regenerating qualities.

Jojoba oil
A naturally occurring ester, in all actuality Jojoba oil isn’t an oil at all; it’s really a liquid wax. The wax is similar to our own sebum which is secreted by our sebaceous glands, and helps to lubricate and protect your skin and hair. Jojoba oil provides an excellent spread ability and lubricity. Although not really an oil in the true meaning, jojoba is really healthy for the skin.

There are many other healthy oil alternatives out there--those where just three. But I'll be back to add more in upcoming issues of The Coil Review. With so much to learn, class is always in session. If you have any questions about what we've reviewed or any other product or hair related matters,
e-mail: info@thecoilreview.com.

Till next time--Live to be Divine.



 
August 4, 2008

Varied Definitions from Girl to Curl
By: Martina Blackwood

What type of imagery is evoked when you hear the names Rachel True, YaYa, Tracey Ellis Ross, and Kelis circa the Milkshake days? For me, their beautiful bushels of hair undoubtedly spring to mind. There’s just something about their tight natural coils and loose curls that spark the desire in some of us to try to get that look. If you’re one of those admirers, rest assure--the versatility exhibited through their hair styles is something that we can all emulate if we so desire.

As beautiful as an afro is, do recognize that we can accentuate our hairstyles by defining the nuances of our unique curl pattern too. Let’s take a look at some curl definers that promise to plump up your coils & curls from the ordinary to the extraordinary.

Curling Custard by Kinky-Curly is an all natural product that is infused with the humectant properties of agave nectar. Quench the thirst of your strands by applying this curling custard to your wet hair, and emerge with soft, shiny, well defined curls. They claim that your hair will not feel brittle or frizzy after it indulges in this rich curl definer. A 16 oz tub will cost you $26.00, but using just a little at a time will make this product last for months. And here’s a quick tidbit, in 2008 Essence magazine gave the Curling Custard its seal of approval.

Don’t let the company name fool you, Mixed Chicks created a leave in conditioner that is meant to define curls of all textures. Much like the aforementioned brand, the Mixed Chicks Leave–In Conditioner is supposed to moisturize your hair while leaving your bouncy curls frizz free and well defined; priced at $16.00 for 10oz. We can put our hair through some damaging processes while attempting to perfect our coifs, so we need products that will pump life back into our hair. Curls Milkshake promises to do just that--nourishing your hair with coconut milk, aloe leaf juice, chamomile and other healthy ingredients. This milkshake will resuscitate your curls as it helps you unravel those pesky tangles. Soft defined curls at $18.00 for an 8oz jar.

What list of curl definers would be complete without mentioning Miss Jessies’ Curly Pudding? If you are trying to define and elongate your curls, you may want to try this pleasurable purple pudding. This creamy pudding is designed to enhance shingles, two strand twists as well as other popular styles. If Miss Jessies’ signature purple pudding doesn’t suit your fancy, there’s always the unscented white curly pudding available to achieve the same looks. The purple scented pudding will range in price from $7.00-$38.00 depending on the size that you select. The unscented curly pudding is available in two sizes only 2oz and an 8oz jar which costs $7.00 and $22.00 respectively.

Inky Loves Nature produces a Defrizz and Define Moisture Milk, designed to whip your curls into shape. Molasses, vitamin E, quinoa oil and certified organic mango seed butter are combined to condition your hair while separating and defining your texture. The website is currently under construction but you can search the Internet for this moisturizing product.

Although it may seem unapparent, I am not advocating any of the products listed above—but merely presenting their promises to you. As you have probably noticed, all of these companies pretty much have similar declarations. They promise to define your curls, send frizzy hair into exile, and leave your hair feeling moisturized and supple. But in actuality, some products define curl patterns perfectly, and then there are others that change your pattern from a tight coil to an undesirable jheri curl. So can they all be true to their claim? You be the ‘curl defining’ judge.



 
August 4, 2008

A Shortcut to FabuloCity
By: Erika Kelley

Some women pave their own way--sketching their own route, while people take notice. 

Women that have sported signature short cuts like Fashion Model and Actress - Tomiko Fraser, International Supermodel - Ajuma Nasenyana, Singer/Songwriter - India Arie, and most recently, Neo-Soulstress - Goapele, have all made loud style statements, as their cuts scream--fabulosity!

It appears to be that these cuts are always in style, no matter the season. And it’s not just actresses and fashion models that are showcasing short styles; professionals like award-winning author and entrepreneur Norma Thompson Hollis, have been wearing it as well. Admirably, sistahs are flaunting their fierce short cuts with poise, grace, and confidence; rightfully so!

With advantages of long hair, like versatility and convenience--because there’s nothing like the simplicity of a pony tail--why are short styles an embraced trend? Four words: manageability, low-maintenance, and exotic style. Ok, four and a half. Lets’ face it, there are simply not enough hours in the day to do everything we need or want to do. Think about the amount of time it takes to wash long hair. Now think about the amount of time it takes to dry and style long hair. Now cut that time in half. Shorter hair can be washed and styled in a shorter amount of time, and requires less hair products, which equal $avings! And with the right cut, the hair will fall into place naturally, without much fuss.

Now please don’t mistake low-maintenance with no maintenance. Depending on the style, regular visits to a professional stylist are paramount. Like longer styles, the hair still requires conditioning and moisturizing, not to mention, trimmings, which will keep the style looking sharp, clean, and healthy.

Who said short cuts were masculine? Quite the contrary; short styles, like mini afros, are attractive, stylish, edgy and feminine at the same time. In fact, short styles are as sophisticated as longer styles. The key is to work with your stylist to create a great customized cut that will cater to your lifestyle, and fit your face without giving you a boyish appearance. Also, consider styling your short cut with hair accessories (e.g., head bands, hair pins, flowers, etc.) to change and enhance your look instantly.

Short dos…monotonous? Short hair can actually be just as versatile as longer tresses. There is a wide range of cuts to choose from. Spectacularly coiled, subtly cropped, dramatically buzzed--from trendy to elegant. And as the hair grows, your style will be ever-changing, which from time to time, will allow you to discover a new look within your current look.

And I don’t know about you, but when I see a woman with short coils, curls, or a cropped cut, she screams confidence. That’s right, she’s got the hutspa to fashion a short cut with no reservations!

So, if you’re thinking of entering the world of the short-cut, go for it! Abandon the crutch of the ponytail and embrace the shortness, exuding your inner essence, confidently! And listen, if the cut doesn’t fit your lifestyle, no problem; hair grows back. However, chances are, once you go low, you’ll be good to go!





August 4, 2008

Just Ask Malaika: And There You Have It
Email: JustAskMalaika@thecoilreview.com


Roxanne just asked Malaika. (Houston, TX)
Malaika, whenever I go on vacation to Jamaica or Miami, my hair feels so nice and moisturized. As soon as I touch down in Houston, my hair goes back to its dry stiff state. I'm aware that hair reacts differently in different climates, but I like my hair in Jamaica! And I like my hair in Miami! And I like living in Houston! How do I get the best of both worlds?
Torn between states - Roxanne

Malaika answered.
Roxanne - I thought I was the only one who felt that way. I live in Maryland and we have dry weather here sometimes, so my hair tends to get very dry. But when I am in the Caribbean, my hair takes on a new life. I have deducted that it has much to do with the moisture in the air as well as the water and food, which in some places, have much less of the pesticides and chemicals that other locations have. But since we can't bring these moisture rich climates back home with us, all we can do is make sure that we drink plenty of water, get plenty of rest, and use natural chemical free products in our hair. Sorry, there is no cure for the climate. 

----------------------------------------------- 

Say Su just asked Malaika. (USA)
Hi There, I have 4a hair (natural) the back is to my shoulders probably about 4 1/2 inches. The front is to my nose. Sides to my chin. I would like to try a curl pudding style... but not waste $20 on a product that will not work well, and requires the whole can to use. Can you suggest a good product, and best method? Say Su

Malaika answered.
Hi Say Su. For the record, I do not endorse products other than my own, simply because there is a lot of garbage out on the market now. I understand that in today's economy, prices are high and continuously going up everyday. But in the interest of quality, there are times when we must give in and spend a little bit of money for the good stuff that will help us maintain the health of our hair. I could recommend cheaper products, but my conscious would not let me. So let's start by saying that Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding, even though it is pricey for you, for the amount that you get, it is top of the line next to my own. Then there is Jane Carter Solution. And finally, for a totally natural product (for the same cost, but a bargain for your money) there is Joie Naturals' My Gel (16 oz). Good luck in your endeavor.

----------------------------------------------- 

Jasmine just asked Malaika. (USA)
I've been going natural for about 4 yrs, since the end of 9th grade. I just let the perm grow out instead of cutting it out. I have these gorgeous curls and waves throughout my hair but I have one issue. This patch on the top, that is the same area my bangs were (I had bangs the summer of 9th grade.), that's just straight and puffy. No curl, no wave, just straight. It's crazy! I wanted someone's opinion on what they think may be the issue and even what I could do to deal with it. Thanks! Jasmine

Malaika answered.
Wow Jasmine!!! I can imagine your frustration. Our hair has many textures and coil patterns, and sometimes there can be up to four different coil patterns on one head. For some of us that's a bummer. But, this is the hand that God has dealt us, and we must invent ways of dealing with it outside of chemically treating it. So you have two options. 1. Go to a Homeopathic doctor to find out what you are eating or what has occurred internally to cause this to happen. Or 2. When styling, rod the front in order to give it a texture or coil. Good luck.

----------------------------------------------- 

Lauren just asked Malaika. (Long Island, NY)
I have just begun the journey of locking my hair and I am beginning to wonder if I am doing this correctly. I went to the hairdresser about a month ago and she told me that I have to go two months before I can wash my hair so that it can loc. The only problem is now my scalp is beginning to look like I haven't cleansed my hair, and it's itching the hell out of me. What should I do??? Is this woman right or am I going about this the wrong way? Thank you in advance, Lauren

Malaika answered.
First of all Lauren, congratulations on your loc'ed hair commitment, and welcome to the community. You have embarked on a spiritual journey that will take you to new levels of spirituality that you have never dreamed of. But, to address your dilemma, you have to do some research before letting a hair dresser versus a natural hair care specialist start your locs. The two don't mix at all. Cosmetology and natural hair care are not the same--the views are different. When I lecture, people tell me horror stories about not being able to wash their hair for two months. That is a big big big myth. Water is a locking agent, and you would want to lock your hair clean. You should be put on an every two week maintenance schedule. Also in the infant stage of locking, just pat wash the hair, but you must by all means wash the hair. As for your next move, do more research and find yourself a natural hair care specialist who can educate you as well as lock your hair properly. They should be able to tell you about coil patterns, textures and the density of your hair, as well as help you to choose products wisely.

----------------------------------------------- 

Tiffany just asked Malaika. (Miami, FL)
Hi Malaika, I've been locking my hair for about 5 years now. I personally think they've been looking thick and great. But in the past 10 months or so, I've been noticing that they are getting thinner closer to the roots, and I'm afraid one day they are going to start to snap off. I twist them myself. How can I prevent this from happening? Am I doing something wrong? Tiffany

Malaika answered.
You have arrived at the fourth stage in hair locking. You are now what we would call an elder in the community. You have locks that are tight, sturdy and dense. You no longer experience that puffiness at the root. They now lay properly. No worries--they will not break unless you neglect them. So sit back, relax and enjoy them--let them be your crown and glory. They will make a presence and speak before you even open your mouth. They are no longer a hairstyle but a way of life.

-----------------------------------------------

Sunnie just asked Malaika. (USA)
I recently decided to stop the chemical fires and having somewhat difficulty with my transitioning. I am currently wearing weave to let the hair grow out, but in order to keep up the maintenance (the appearance for work) I will have to continue to put heat on my hair so it will blend. Considering I didn't pay that much for it, I am considering taking it out early to try to work with both textures BUT I am afraid of what it will look like WITHOUT using heat. I want strong, healthy NATURAL hair and the more I use the heat to make it work, I am perpetuating the notion that you need heat to look good. What should I do?

Malaika answered.
First things first, you have to be re-introduced to your natural hair, and then when you come to the understanding that you do not need heat, it will force you to learn new techniques on how to deal with your own hair. Additionally, you will begin to think you are beautiful and presentable no matter what; with or without heat. Be a non-conformist.

I am so glad to hear you say that you want to kick the weave and the heat. Never let your own hair intimidate you. Embrace all the textures. As far as transitional styles, there are plenty. You can choose from braids, cornrows in to a bun, flat twists, double strand twists, and so much more. My suggestion to you is to try two strand twisting your hair, and rodding the ends to give you a curly afro look. Good luck in your transition.

----------------------------------------------- 

Steph just asked Malaika. (New York City)
I am having some issues with the back, and actually I have noticed this with other women who have natural hair. It has gotten worse in the last year...the very back top part of my hair just curls a lot tighter and seems like it isn't growing at the same rate as the rest of my hair. So I get this weirdo mushroom hair thing going on (except, the curls on the side of my hair match the curls underneath...so I'm not even a cute mushroom). I have gotten it cut a few times to try to get it all even, but that doesn't even work...the curls underneath just grow fast and are so much loser, that almost within a week, the lopsidedness occurs again. Do you have suggestions? I can't wear my hair down anymore because it drives me insane. :( I don't want to cut it again either.

Malaika answered.
Wow, seems like you have a lot going on. Before we can get to any styling and cutting, you should address the issue of why it is not growing in those particular areas of your head. I would consult a Homeopathic specialist first for a detox treatment. Second, check your eating and sleeping habits, as well as your water intake. See if you are on any medications that may be hindering your hair (cough syrup, blood pressure medicine, medicines for elimination problems, etc.). Do you wear wigs? It will block natural sunlight which affects the intake of vitamin D. Do you take vitamins? Very important.

In your case, hair styling is the last of your problems. You have to address the inside before the hair will grow nicely on the outside for styling. Look into those things. Good luck. 

...and she's just getting started, so keep your questions coming!
Email: JustAskMalaika@thecoilreview.com  
  






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